If you're traveling here May through October, you might have an easier trip if you've reserved your hotels ahead of time. At festival times and in July and August, always reserve in advance.

With so much to see, careful planning may be required to overcome the limits of Italian scheduling. Remember that most shops close 1-3:30 PM and Sunday through Monday morning. Some museums have only morning hours, and most close Monday. Churches, however, usually reopen after a lunch break. Summer brings some extended hours; many shops stay open at midday and some shift their Monday closing to Saturday afternoon.

Florence may not be one of Italy's most expensive cities, but it certainly is Tuscany's. Also, it's steamier than most Tuscan towns because of its location in the Arno valley. (On the other hand, it's balmier when other spots are too cool.) For these reasons, many travelers prefer to split their time in Tuscany between Florence and other cities.

Tuscany is not far enough south to banish winter frosts, but such cold is unusual, though an extended spell of below freezing temperatures killed most of the region's olive groves in 1985. Damp, if not terribly cold in the winter Florence has an average low of 2° C (35° F) high of 9° C (48° F) in January; it's most inviting in May, June, and September when the temperatures aren't extreme and the summer horde of foreigners can be avoided. July and August can be searingly hot with temperatures averaging between 18° C (65° F) and 31° C (87° F) in July, but basically dry with some thunderstorms. The summer months are full of music and cultural festivals as well as medieval pageants.

Florence poses no special threat to travelers in either health or safety. As elsewhere in Italy, pickpockets are a menace, especially in crowds, on buses, and near the train station. Fanny packs and purses are easy prey to razor-wielding thieves. Watch especially for small children, who often operate in gangs: One distracts you while another lifts your wallet. Don't leave valuables in cars, and always park in a well-lighted place, or best, in a garage with an attendant.

Women traveling alone will draw attention from Lothario-types, and walking alone after dark should be avoided.