Specialities & Wine
Gelli: (Large portion using new wine) 1,5 to 2 kilos of pork head (cut up), 1,5 kilo of beef, 2 to 3 kilos of pork neck (in 4 pieces), 6 pigs feet, 500 grams of pork ears, 5 to 6 litres of Elbling (use cooking Elbling, that is, with strong acidity).
Soup greens: Leeks, carrots, celery, parsley, 4 laurel leaves, 8 to 10 cloves, mustard grains, salt, 6 bouillon cubes.
Cook the meat with all the ingredients; remove it from the liquid and, when it has cooled, cut into small pieces. Let the bouillon liquid thicken during the night. Lift off the layer of fat. Reheat the bouillon and pass it through cheesecloth to clarify it. Bring the clear bouillon to a boil for a short time and put the cut meat in - taste it. The jelly should have a strong flavour. If the Elbling used is not acid enough add a little vinegar. Turn all into a bowl and let it cool. The jelly can easily be frozen but it is necessary, before serving it, to bring it to a boil again and then let it chill.
Friture: "Friture" is THE dish of the Moselle region. After a pleasant Sunday afternoon stroll through the vineyards, one should seek out a typical Moselle restaurant. Don't look at the menu for long. Order "Friture". And don't forget, fish should swim; so study the wine list. Fish should swim first in water, then in hot fat, and lastly in good wine. A first class Riesling is the best. Friture can of course be prepared at home.
(For 4 persons:) Approximately 60 small fresh water fish, 4 lemons, flour, 3 or 4 eggs depending on size, freshly milled white pepper, a bunch of parsley, deep-frying oil, pork fat.
First the fish should be descaled. This is done by holding the main fin and scraping the fish with a short, not to sharp knife, in the direction of the head. With a very sharp knife, slit the lenght of the belly of the fish and remove the entrails. Dip the fish in salt and pepper, pour the juice of the lemons over them and ensure that they are thoroughly coated. Put 150 grams of flour in a bowl, and dip each fish into it until covered. In farmhouse cooking the fish would also be dipped in beaten egg and drained. In a deep frier mix oil (3/4) and pork fat (1/4), and heat to 180'C. Cook the fish in portion quantities until golden brown. Serve on a preheated plate and garnish with slices of lemon. As Friture are traditionally eaten with the fingers, it is wise to supply guests with a bowl of fresh lemon water. That is to wash their hands and not to drink! For that purpose Riesling is used!.
Chicken in Riesling: (For 4 persons:)
A chicken of about 1,5 kilos, 4 shallots, 75 grams butter, 100 grams cream, 1 egg yolk, 1/4 litre Riesling, a small cup of meat stock, 1 clove garlic, parsley, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 liquer glass Cognac, 150 grams mushrooms, salt, pepper, a little nutmeg, 2 tablespoons oil.
Cut the chicken into equal sized pieces. Lightly brown these pieces in half the butter fried in a stewing pan for about five minutes, then season. Put in the shallots, parsley, and garlic, finely chopped, and continue to cook on a low heat. Flambe the meat with the cognac, and then pour in the Riesling and the stock. Simmer on a low heat for thirty minutes. Chop the mushrooms and fry them lightly in the remaining butter. Then add them to the pot. A few minutes before the end of the cooking time, blend the flour, cream and egg yolk. Pour this sauce over the meat without cooking further. Now season to taste. Serve hot with noodles or dumplings.
Pike in green sauce: (For 4 persons:)
1 pike (1-1.5 kilos), 1 carrot, 1 onion, some celery, a bayleaf, peppercorns, some Riesling, salt. For the sauce: 50 grams butter, a handful of sorrel and chervil, a bunch of parsley and some chives, pepper, salt, 1/4 litre sweet cream.
In order to serve the fish whole, a large fish kettle or something similar is required. Boil the vegetables and spices for 45 minutes to produce a stock, to which a glass of Riesling should be added. Clean and descale the fish while this is being done.
Put the stock in the fish kettle, and lay the fish on the riddle therein. Bring to the boil, and continue to cook, with the lid on, for about an hour. During this time butter a cassarole and lightly cook the sorrel and chervil in it, on a low heat. Pour in half a cup of stock, add the cream, and boil for a short time. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Lay the poached fish on a preheated plate. Mix the freshly chopped parsley and chives into the sauce, and pour it immediately over the fish. Serve with boiled potatoes, with a green salad or buttered mushrooms. Drink a good Riesling with the dish.
Riesling Pate in pastry:
The Pate: 400 grams veal, 300 grams pork, 100 gram green bacon, 2-3 shollets, 1 clove garlic, parsley, thyme, savory, salt, pepper, a slice of bread in crumbs, 1 egg, some milk, 20 cl. Riesling or Elbling, 2 cl. Cognac, some olive oil, plain flour. The Pastry: 250 grams flour, 125 grams soft butter, 1/2 sachet of baking powder, 1 egg, some water, salt.
The aspic: 4 sachets gelatine, 20 cl. Riesling, salt.
200 grams each of the veal and pork should be cut into small cubes (5 mm.* 5mm.). Place the chopped meat in a bowl and add the shallots, the garlic (pressed), the thyme, the parsley (chopped), the savory, the cognac, and the wine, salt and pepper. Stir well and leave overnight in a refrigeator. Sieve the flour and the baking powder into a bowl and add a pinch of salt. Break in the egg, and mix with 1-2 tablesponns of water. Stir in the butter in knobs and kread it all into a supple dough. Leave it in a refrigerator for 1-2 hours.
Butter a baking tin, and sprinkle it with flour. Roll the dough on a floured board until it is about 5 mm. thick, and lay it out in the baking tin, trimming the edges. Mince the remaining meat and the bacon, but not too finely, and mix together with the milk and breadcrumbs. Mix with the marinated meat and the egg. Add pepper and salt. Fill the baking tin. Roll out the rest of the dough in a rectangular shape. Lay it over the meat, and press the edges together with a spoon. Cut a 2 cm. funnel in the top.
Preheat the oven to 250'C, and pour water into a pan. Stand the baking tin in the water and cook for some 2 hours. Allow it to cool completely. Put it in a refrigerator. Open the sachets of gelatine, and boil the contents with the wine and salt. Pour this aspic through the funnel in the pastry and leave it to set. To serve, remove from the baking tin.
You will note that Elbling can be used for this "Riesling Pate" but Riesling should be drunk as an accompaniment.
Crayfish Luxembourg Style: (For 4 persons:)
48 living crayfish, 2 shallots, 1 carrot, some green celery, 1 spring of thyme, chopped parsley, some tarragon, 1 bayleaf, 100 grams fresh butter, salt, freshly ground pepper, 1/4 litre best Riesling with 1/4 litre fish stock, or 1/2 litre Riesling.
Chop the vegetables very finely, and mix with the parsley and tarragon. Lightly fry the vegetables in 50 grams of butter, pour in the Riesling (it must be the best) and fish stock, and simmer for twenty minutes. Do not forget the thyme and bayleaf. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Now send sensitive people out of the kitchen and take the crayfish. First of all make sure that they are all alive. Place a sieve ready, take a crayfish and lay it on a chopping board. Hold the tail in one hand, and take hold of the central fins and tear them out with one jerk, twisting at the same time. Make sure the thin blue-black intestine is thoroughly removed, because it tastes terrible.
Now place the simming vegetables on a very high heat and bring them to boil. Throw the crayfish straight in together. Cover and continue to boil hard. Stir the crayfish from time to time. They are ready in 1/4 hour.
Serve on a very hot dish. Mix the rest of the butter in the pan and add salt and pepper to taste. Pour the contents over the crayfish and garnish with the parsley. The meal should be eaten with one's fingers, and a fine Riesling should be served as an accompaniment.
Mussels Luxembourg Style:
Mussels are a very popular dish in Luxembourg. From October until February there is hardly a restaurant whose menu does not have the obligatory "Moules Marinières" or "Moules a la Luxembourgeoise". In every case mussels are served with pommes frites.
(For 4 persons:) 3-4 kilos cleaned mussels, 2 leeks, 1 carrot, 1 large stick of celery and some celery leaf, 1 onion, 1-2 shallots, a bunch of parsley, 5 bulbs of garlic, 1/2 bottle Riesling, 150 grams butter, pepper, salt, a sprig of thyme, 2 tarragon leaves.
Do not fear; 3-4 kilos of mussels are not to much. Take each mussel individually, and make absolutely certain that its shell is tightly closed. Remove any algea and clean the shells of any impurity with a short sharp knife. Put the cleaned mussels in a bowl of water. Throw away any which do not pass the test. Press the mussels and rub the two sides of the shell together in a light scissors movement. A healthy mussel will close again by itself. Any other should be discarded, as should any about which you are in any way doubtful. Wahs the mussels thoroughly by rubbing them vigorously together. Change the water 2 to 3 times. There is another manner of testing the mussels if you are still not sure. Place the mussels in cold salt water. A living mussel will open slightly and sink to the buttom. After two hours throw away any which are still on the surface.
Now the preparation: Clean all the vegetables, except the garlic, and chop them very finely. Allow the butter to reach room temperature so that it is soft. Lightly fry the onion and shallots in 50 grams of butter in a large pot, and add all the chopped vegetables and the thyme and tarragon, also finely chopped. Pour in 1/4 bottle of Riesling, and allow to simmer for a quarter of an hour. During this time crush the garlic and mix with the remaining 100 grams of butter. To this add a little freshly milled pepper. Put the pot on a very high heat, and drop the mussels into the boiling contents, pouring in the rest of the wine. Cover firmly. Every two minutes stir with a circular movement to make sure the mussels do not remain at the buttom of the pot. After ten minutes almost all the mussels should have opened. Now put the garlic butter in the pot. In two to three minutes, with regular stirring, the sauce should have mixed thoroughly. Sprinkle with freshly chopped parsley and serve immediately.
Crisp pommes frites should be served with mussels, and an outstanding Riesling. Luxembourg's Belgian neighbours often drink a cold beer with their mussels.
NB. Mussels as well as pommes frites are best eaten with the fingers. Do not forget to place an empty bowl on the table for the discarded shells.
Experienced mussel-eaters slide the empty shells into one another. This takes up less space, and no one can tell that he has alone eaten two or three kilos!.
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